Northern Nicaragua may not enjoy the year-round offshore winds of the south but it makes up for it in less crowded surfing. Barrel hunters flock here for the barreling beach break called The Boom, so named for the sound it makes when the wave pounds the sand bottom. But the little enclave around Aposentillo offers so much more: surf spots for all levels, wellness retreats, and a bangin' salsa club. Lesser mortals like myself are drawn to Nahualapa bay, an intermediate surf spot a 15-minute drive north from The Boom.
Surf Spots
As there is not much development in the area, the water remains clean and the beaches pristine save for the now universal bits and pieces of microplastic. The vibe is welcoming even at the most crowded spot, The Boom. In June/July, the Boom season was just getting started as southern swells pick up and start slamming the south-facing shores. Here I review spots from south to north:
The Boom, or El Boom
Surfers, boogie boarders, and body surfers alike all have one thing in mind when they come to this sand bottom A-frame: get pitted. Its power and intensity foments camaraderie among the mostly American knuckleheads cheering each other on. A gaggle of photographers and onlookers on trucks holds their breath and prays for every person that attempts a run through the throat, bursting out in whoops and hollers when they make it out of the barrel... or oofs and ouches when they don't.
It's an easy paddle out if you time it right. It only takes one or two duck dives to get to the lineup as the waves breaks so close to shore. At low tide, this place is empty as the wave breaks right on shore. Watch for strong currents that can sweep you away to one of several peaks. Or maybe just let yourself be whisked away to a less crowded, less board-breaking peak.
Margaritas
The farthest north of the peaks that share the beach with The Boom. This is the first break you see when you exit from Amaru Resort to the beach that hosts The Boom. It's mellower than its cousin next door but still plenty of zip to send you rocketing down the line. You will most likely be the only one out here as everyone else is at The Boom. Kick out before the rocks at the northern end.
Amaru Resort
Just below the cliff on which Amaru Resort stands is a quiet longboarding spot great for beginners and sunset lovers. Shuffle your feet along the sandy bottom to scare away the stingrays - one unlucky guest at Amaru got stung by one and couldn't surf for a week.
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| Longboard point break with sand bottom next to Amaru Resort |
Aposentillo
This beach break can be a beginner spot or an intermediate spot depending on the swell. There are 3 peaks but the southernmost one has submerged rocks and a more hollow peak - good for intermediates trying out their first baby barrels.
Nahualapa
This is what I came to Northern Nicaragua for, on the recommendation of a fellow surfer I met in Mexico. At the end of a long, muddy 4WD road is a bay with three peaks and friendly A-frame rollers for longboarders and shortboarders alike. There's a channel on the northern end, about 100ft to the left of the rocks on shore. The waves are not hollow but they are long and occasionally overhead. Most days are not crowded. The most people I've seen was 12.
There is one restaurant here, Tapas and Surf, but it wasn't open, and no surf shops around so BYOB (Bring Your Own Beverage and Bring Your Own Board). Other than that, there are just a few homes that the surf guide said would probably cost around $70K to buy (but that was back in 2023). For a little shade, you can sit under one of the barebones huts with benches.
Food & Lodging
Amaru Resort is your best bet for an all-inclusive experience that supports digital nomads with wifi, AC (because it's hot and humid as f*ck in June/July), and 3 meals a day which you'll really appreciate when you notice there are no restaurants or grocery stores nearby. The rooms overlooking the ocean are comfortable and stare out at a becalmed Playa Aposentillo. The showers do not have hot water unfortunately, so make sure you work up a sweat before taking a cold shower.
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| View from the room |
There are boards for rent that are dinged up, snapped, then repaired over and over so they are on the heavy side (especially the thick Aztec longboard). Best to bring your own boards. There are daily yoga classes at the picturesque Yoga Shala, offered as part of the resort's packages.
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| Yoga Shala at Amaru |
The resort is owned by a Nicaraguan who worked in London and retired back to his home country. He partnered with an earthy American from Hawaii, Gerritt Cooper, to run the resort. You can find Gerritt working on one of a gazillion projects - growing a garden of the organic produce used in the resort's meals, running video analysis for surfers, fixing boards, filming surfers at the Boom when he's not shredding it himself, etc.
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| AC room at Amaru |
Massages are available by appointment for $40 per hour and take place at a clifftop hut overlooking the sea.
There are other places to stay like Mellow, Chancletas and Thunderbomb but they are more focused on surfing and do not cater as well as Amaru to digital nomads or non-surfers.
Non-Surfing Activities
The resort regularly hosts events and wellness retreats (such as this Acro Yoga and Surf Retreat) throughout the year. Every week, Amaru runs a Taco Night and a Pizza Night (with a wood-fired oven) which is popular among the outside public as well. On laydays, Amaru can arrange a mangrove tour where you can jump out of trees and try wake surfing through the estuary. There some local guy that does fishing trips too, if you're into that.
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| Pizza Night at Amaru |
They also do excursions to Salsa Night Thursdays at Aryana's restaurant, which offers salsa, cumbia, and bachata classes before releasing students into the wild, where they must freestyle with locals and foreigners alike. This is not like an American or European nightclub where dancing with someone is taken as a proposition to get in bed with that person later that night. Here, people simply love to dance and enjoy music together. People partner up for a song then swirl around to partner up with someone else the next song. I highly recommend a visit to the salsa club, whether or not you stay at Amaru.
Other than that, you'll need to bring your own entertainment. There's not much else to do. I like to paint and make music videos.
Conclusion
Northern Nicaragua is a remote and uncrowded (as of 2023) surfing destination with lush, unspoiled scenery. You can find long stretches of undeveloped (or at least not overdeveloped) coastline and, with a boat, discover as yet unnamed surf spots. Unless you have a car though, you are beholden to your surf resort for much of your basic needs.
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| Steps leading down from Amaru Resort to Playa Aposentillo |
Reviewed by beachplease
on
July 29, 2023
Rating:
