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| Another lovely Bali sunset |
Whoa! A whole month gone by already! Where did all that time go? The longer I peer at the blur that was my past, some things come into focus: days whiled away surfing (and training for more surfing) in a tropical paradise. Sounds like a month well spent. My fourth week at the Sōleïa Surf Academy (it's a mouthful, so let's just call it SSA for short) was no exception, Bali Belly notwithstanding.
People
Before I swing off to another day-by-day account of the week, I'd like to share some of my demographic observations at Sōleïa Surf because people influence vibes - and vibes make the experience.
Students
By this time, I've gotten to learn a little more of what drives people into SSA. For some, it's curiosity about surf instruction as a viable career. For others, it's a desire to add a part-time sideline to their soul-crushing jobs. For still others, it's a cost-effective way to spend months in paradise avoiding corporate slavery while learning to surf.
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| Hanging out at The Castle |
Starting at 5000 euros for the 12-week course package, SSA offers the lowest price compared to all its local competitors, such as Kima Surf. That price point makes SSA accessible to even the younger crowd. We're talking foreigners of course, not the locals - the shockwaves from the 1997 Asian Financial Crisis and Indonesia's ongoing current account deficits* and sluggish economic growth continue to hamper the rupiah. The majority of SSA students are backpackers and gap-year kiddos in their early 20s. A tiny minority are in their 30s and 40s.
Generally, the atmosphere is supportive rather than competitive, except for one guy who makes snobby, inappropriate remarks. For example, during video analysis: "Hah, you got pushed into the wave and you still didn't make it?!" or "You're under-performing". During surf skate, he shouted at one guy learning to pump the board, "That's pathetic.". It's not constructive feedback, nor did it come across as a funny joke (assuming that what his intention).
But the community was quick to point out it was unacceptable behavior. SSA treats everyone like a family where people help each other. Camaraderie is evident as students accompany each other on hospital visits, retrieve food for those ill or injured, share snacks on long road trips, etc.
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| The December 2024-February 2025 class of SSA |
Due to Sōleïa Surf's largely european ownership and marketing, most students at SSA are europeans - particularly chainsmoking, convivial dutch, german, british, swiss, and italian (in descending order of cohort size). I am the only non-european in the current class. I find it would have helped to learn Dutch to understand the conversations going on***. The previous class had a little more variety and hence English became the common language, with students hailing from Netherlands, Germany, UK, USA, Switzerland, Sweden, Spain, Italy, Hong Kong, and Australia.
Staff
All the staff are english-speaking locals and expats skilled and experienced in their trades.
Prischa and Elva are usually the first to welcome you as they coordinate guest arrivals and departures, house activities and trips. They are the glue that holds Sōleïa Surf together socially, while Gangga holds it together physically as the repairman (he also doubles as a doctor at Siloam Hospital).
Main House head chef Yuli rules her kitchen with a sharp knife, an even sharper tongue, and tender love like a mother cooking for her children. Guests and staff alike approach her counter with deference, like puppies hoping to get some scraps. She and her two assistants form a tight-knit team to whip up daily breakfasts for guests, lunch for hard-working staff, and a weekly dinner for all on Saturdays.
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| Chef Yuli and her team on Saturday dinner night |
Over at The Castle, Wiwik oversees the housekeeping and kitchen affairs. This quiet, unassuming soul has been with Sōleïa Surf for 12 years, a longstanding figure behind the scenes who has seen the ownership, management, and its name change over the years. (Sōleïa Surf was formerly part of the Solid Surf House chain).
Komang, the housekeeper at Main House, loves to clean and does a fine job worthy of a 4-star resort. By the time you come home from your surf session, the room is cleaned, sand swept away, beds made, toilet paper reset, towels changed, surfaces wiped, and mosquito plug refilled.
Ilham and his camera crew are ready to capture guests' moments in and out of the water. The videos are later analyzed with a surf instructor to help pinpoint areas of improvement for students. Ilham deftly weaves surf footage and B-roll together into fantastic summary videos that guests can take home as keepsakes.
The surf instructors are proper shredders from Bali, Java, Sumatra, as well as beyond Indonesia, that are certified by PSOI (Indonesia Surfing Association) and/or ISA. They all try to spread good cheer in and out of the water and you'll find that some are also talented musicians at post-surf (and sometimes, in-surf) karaoke.
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| Cheezin' with Sōleïa Surf instructors in Java |
Owners Thomas and Ryan are on-site to run the whole enchilada and sometimes join in on lessons and surf sessions. Affable gentlemen, they prioritize the customer experience while providing a relaxed work environment (at least compared to Kima Surf). Thomas also teaches the apnea training to help students overcome the panic of long hold-downs during wipeouts.
There are many more people I haven't named here that contribute to the making of Sōleïa Surf, but I am grateful to all of them. It's been a month, but I have yet to encounter anyone that sours the experience.
Day-by-Day
And now for our day-by-day account of the week, but this time in haiku form to shorten an already long-winded post.
Monday: Berawa
Three meter forecast
Disappointing mess outside
No channel, no rides
Translation: A 3m swell shut down the channels and made it a real bear to get out at Berawa again. Students and instructors alike were scratching our heads as to why the head surf coach Wayan chose to put us here again in these conditions even though they were clearly not the best that Bali could offer for our level that day. I paddled for 30 minutes and kept getting stuck in the impact zone before instructor Dandi and I decided to call it off. Due to the rising tide, it was too late by then to drive to breaks on the east side, which would have been a better area.
We did popup and bottom turn practice on land later in the afternoon, where Thomas taught us to relax after popping up because it's hard to turn, let alone think, when we're all tensed up. "In the end, surfing is about having fun."
Tuesday: Lembeng
Clean but tricky waves
Need more volume, diaper face
Cafe delight us
Translation: As recommended by Dandi, we went to the east side to Lembeng. He made the right call. I had a blast at Lembeng. It was bigger than when we scoped it out last week yet the channels were still open long enough to let my pokey ass through. The peak on the left (when facing the ocean from the beach) were deceivingly tricky to catch. The peak collapses so quickly, it was hard to escape the whitewater. But if you took off on the shoulder, it was too mellow to get going. I feel like more volume would have really benefited me here so I could take off earlier.
The peak on the right was faster, steeper and easier to catch on my little board. Got a couple short rides. Tried and failed to get barreled. There were some late takeoffs where I hit the Nope button. In general, I was pleased with Lembeng. The water was a little dirty - I caught a diaper in my face. But I really like the beachfront cafe with showers and easy access from the parking lot.
Wednesday: Berawa
Still hard paddle out
But now smaller, cleaner waves
I had much fun there
Translation: The swell and winds in west Bali tapered off to tamer, more rideable conditions with a channel in front of Legong that stayed open long enough to get through.
Later we did video analysis then surf skate but the skate session was canceled while I was in transit to Amplitude Skate Park. So I ended up skating alone and working on pushing the board out sideways at the end of my frontside bottom turn to start getting the feel for blowtail. Baby steps.
Thursday: Berawa
Waning swell, but fun
I stick to wall like a fly
Kick out with control
Translation: The swell dipped down to produce shoulder to slightly overhead waves. I had an easier time getting out at Berawa. I also brought my higher-volume board (my trusty 6'0" beater from South Africa) to aid my tired arms. I had my smoothest, most flowy rides this week. I could catch the waves earlier and turn down the line so I could work on my bottom/top turns more. Unfortunately, there are no videos of this session.
Later I got a lecture from Thomas about needing rest after he noticed I go to the gym every other day even with a full schedule of SSA activities. "Rest is part of training.". I took his advice to heart. Or rather, I was forced to by the Bali Belly I contracted from swallowing some dirty water at Berawa earlier. I skipped the pool practice where the class worked on paddling and duck diving.
Friday: Bali Belly
Ruined underwear
Ruined sleep. Poop is liquid.
Stay home. No surfing.
Translation: I think this is self-explanatory.
Saturday: Surf Skate
Pushed myself to skate
I felt so dizzy and weak
Must sit down some more
Translation: Though I still couldn't go surfing nor do the run-swim-run practice for the ISA fitness test, I thought I was well enough to at least surf skate again. I was wrong.
Sunday: Rest Day
Chill out, it's Lay Day
Soak in hot spring, get massage
Write another blog
Translation: Another much needed rest day before another action-packed week at Sōleïa Surf.
Footnotes
*Sorry, not sorry for the economic jargon. I worked as an economist in my 20s for Dr. Doom. I was a big hit at parties whenever I started talking about balance sheet crises! Just kidding. Everyone's eyes glazed over, just like yours.
***The only dutch I know is "lekker", which means good or delicious.
Reviewed by beachplease
on
January 25, 2025
Rating:
