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| View of Saladita point break from Paco's tacos restaurant |
The word is out, so the crowds are in at Saladita, Mexico. This once sleepy hamlet grew from a single family (the Valencias) to an american expat enclave thronging with longboarders since a group of intrepid American surfers discovered the point break about 30 years ago and developed the infrastructure (electricity, telecoms, sanitation, trash pickup). The local families multiplied as the quality of life improved and they opened businesses catering to the hordes of surfers that descend upon Saladita year after year for the long 1500ft rides and/or the annual Mexi Logfest in April (though this year it took place in Mazatlan instead).
Season
November to July (dry season and the beginning of wet season) are the best times to go for clean, consistent waves and sunny days. The winter months (January-February) can get chilly with air temps down in the 50s (fahrenheit). I avoid April as that's when the Mexi Logfest usually takes place and non-competitors are not allowed in the water during that week. I hear the waves are smaller in the winter, getting down to knee-high in January. In May, the waves are head high and the water temp is in the 80s. Board shorts and bikini weather for sure.
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| Time to "log off" from work |
Crowds
There's really only one break here - the point break - so everyone congregates around this focal point. Morning and sunset sessions get about 30-50 surfers in the water. It gets hairy dodging all those people. Don't get in the locals' way. By local, I mean surfers from the nearby village, not the chilangos who are natives of Mexico City and look down upon the rural class. Some locals are friendly. Others will shout at you to stop paddling for a wave, even if you're closer to the peak and it's your turn. They're weary of the crowds, gringos and chilangos alike. Mid-day can be less crowded but it's windy. Swells of 2m or more also tend to clear out the crowds.
Saladita pumping in May
Water Quality
The water is clean most days. Occasionally, it can smell like sewage when the septic system overflows or the wind blows through the bathrooms at the Lourdes Bar & Grill right at the point. Before the americans came, the local family that lives on the coast used to dump their trash on the beach and wait for the rains to wash it into the ocean. They had an outhouse for a bathroom. Things have changed since then, with the arrival of septic systems and weekly trash pickup. There is dog doodoo here and there on the beach but the locals and expats are trying to spay/neuter strays to control the population and encourage each other to pick up after their dogs.
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| Keep the beaches clean |
Surf Spot
La Punta Saladita, the point break is the main attraction here. It's a long left that can run for 500m, starting from the deepwater point with cobblestone bottom and ending over a sand beach in front of either Chucho's board rental or, if you catch a really long ride, some taco shops. Get out for a nibble and walk back to the point. Or, if you feel like burning some excess calories, paddle against the current that constantly pushes you away from the peak. You can paddle in from anywhere really.
Side shot of surfing the point break
Keep in mind that the corollary of long rides is a long paddle - about 20-30 minutes of paddling to get to the outside peak. Take breaks if you need to. Some people give up and stay at the inside peak. Shortboarders give up even earlier and stay on the farthest inside peak that breaks close to shore. I prefer to walk over the cobblestones past Lourdes to shorten my paddle by a third.
Food
Do you like tacos and chilaquiles? They have plenty of that here and then some. Each of the local families have their own restaurant right on the beach. Lourdes Bar & Grill at the point is one of the oldest restaurants here and has the best viewing terrace for watching surfers. They serve pasta and salads alongside Mexican fare. On Sunday nights, Ilianet Restaurant and Bar makes chile rellenos (stuffed peppers) if you order ahead in the morning.
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| Sunset margarita at Ilianet's |
Paco's makes the best arrachera (skirt steak) tacos and does BBQ ribs night on Saturdays.
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| Sadly, this pop-up thai restaurant is gone now but it was replaced by a bangin' El Chilaquil |
El Chilaquil specializes in chilaquiles. Los Benny's used to make the biggest burritos I've ever eaten - almost a foot long - but they started controlling portions last year.
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| Los Benny's longest burrito in the world |
Farther inland, there's a converted bus housing an Italian restaurant, La Italiana. Surf City Cafeteria is the go-to wifi cafe/restaurant, serving turmeric shakes, chilaquiles, and more out of converted shipping containers with outdoor seating, fans, and live music on some nights. Head to La Esquina bodega next door afterwards for locally made ice cream and some light provisions - snacks, pasta, eggs, avocados, etc..
If you're staying long-term in Saladita, you can drive an hour to Zihuatanejo and load up on provisions at Mega Soriana, Mexico's version of Walmart. You can get fresh produce and carnitas meat at the farmer's market on Sundays at Los Llanos, the town you pass on the way to Saladita.
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| Sunday Farmer's market in Los Llanos |
Lodging
The best place to stay in Saladita is Saladita Beachside Inn, hands down. It's a gorgeous beachfront home lovingly built and run by a friendly couple who were part of the original crew of Americans who discovered and developed Saladita. You can paddle right out front to the point break and watch it all day from the veranda, the two ramadas in the front yard, or even your room - all the rooms have ocean views. There are no elevators but there are only 3 floors and the stairs are wide.
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| View from the Saladita Beachside Inn porch |
Internet is powered by Starlink. The solar panels and generators ensure electricity 24/7. Huge communal kitchen downstairs with filtered drinking water and one of the biggest gas stoves you'll ever use. Ornate tiles, murals (including my own, hehe), and artwork everywhere. AC, hot water on tap, board racks, outdoor showers, hammocks. Waves every day. Everything a surfer and digital nomad needs! I have fallen in love with this place and return to it every year.
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| Surf check from the ramada |
When I first visited Saladita 3 years ago, I stayed at Casas Playa Saladita but I cannot recommend this place. It was too dirty. Big roach in the fridge and gecko poop everywhere. The housekeeping rarely came by to clean. No one was around to greet me when I arrived. I waited half an hour to get a key to my room, 2 hours to get a wifi password from the absentee owner. Wifi was very slow and intermittent. The lodge is right behind Ilianet's Restaurant. The balconies are angled the wrong way so you can't really see the break from them. Better to walk down to Ilianet's Restaurant and do your surf check from there. I was so relieved when I moved to Saladita Beachside Inn just a 5-minute walk away.
Reviewed by beachplease
on
May 31, 2023
Rating:
