Yes, there is surfing in Zanzibar, the little island paradise off the coast of Tanzania in east Africa. No one knows there is. Most people go to Tanzania for safaris. So you can expect the waves to be uncrowded except when the only surf school on the island, Aquaholics, has a full class (about 10 students) and there aren't enough intermediate (or higher) surfers to merit a separate trip to the more advanced spots.
Consistency
Just don't expect the waves to be like Indo. Consistency is not a feature of Zanzibar surf. So many factors have to be just right to get surfable waves here: tide must be high (depends on the lunar cycle), wind must be low (usually mornings), the swell has to be big enough, and the stars must align (okay, just kidding about the stars). Otherwise, you get wind chop slop.
Swells are small in October, which is when I went. Most days were short-medium period wind swell and the front of the waves were knee to shoulder high (and note that I am a short woman). Best to bring a longboard or a fish. The only place a shortboard is appropriate during the low season is at the intermediate+ breaks, but even there a longboard was the way to go for maximizing wave count.
The intermediate+ breaks are very inconsistent in October and, when they are firing, you need at least 4 surfers to confirm the boat trip out there. So bring or make some intermediate+ surfer friends while you're here. June-July are better months for scoring rides on the intermediate+ reef breaks. Jake, the surf guide and boat captain, says the waves can get barreling in the peak months and it's just 6 surfers out there.
Access
Because all the breaks are on the other side of the reef, access to the waves requires a boat - unless you like a long paddle across the lagoon then a reef walk (which you shouldn't do because it kills the reef). If you can speak Swahili, great. Negotiate with a fisherman to take you to the break and wait for you. Otherwise, you're at the mercy of Aquaholics to show you around. Students meet in the Paje headquarters on the east side of the island.
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| Aquaholics HQ |
Surf Spots
Tamarins
Beginner spot where Aquaholics students start their surf journey. The sand bottom with sea grass and some flat rocks make this a safe spot for newbies. If you veer too far south, the waves terminate on the reef. Best ye learn to starfish (when you get off the board, don't touch the floor or kick your feet; gingerly float on the surface of the water as if there were knives just six inches below your back).
Dongwe Doughnuts
Take the channel south of Tamarins to the waves breaking farther outside. Lefts and rights. It's about a 500m paddle contending with currents pushing you north. There are some whales to catch here, as in, taller waves that have some juicy drops that quickly taper off into the mushy lagoon.
Keep Lefties
South of Dongwe Doughnots, outside the reef is, well, lefties. Multiple peaks to spread yourself out. Also good for beginners.
J-box
The outer reef in the J-shaped bay in front of ZanziSoul Resort in Jambiani is where the intermediate+ breaks are. If you're lucky enough to score a trip out here, you'll find long and empty lefts and rights that sometimes barrel. Some close out onto shallow reef. Though the reef is not as sharp as the ones in Indonesia, it's still scratchy enough to f*ck you and your board up. Also, there's the occasional sea urchin. So starfish or stay near the reef passes.
Food & Lodging
I stayed at the Aquaholics surf camp accommodation at Ebb & Flow apartments in Paje. It's not beachfront but it's a short 3-minute walk to the beach. The shower head was busted and shot water up towards the ceiling and all over the bathroom except onto me. Management fixed that once I notified them.
Breakfast is included with the surf camp package and consisted of fresh juice, fruit, protein (usually eggs but vegan options are available), toast, and sometimes donuts. The nightly turndown service consists of a girl who comes in to open up the mosquito net then spray bug repellent around your bed. Most guests were german speakers in their 30s and 40s from Germany, Austria, or Switzerland. We hit it off and formed a biker gang to tour the island on our rental scooters.
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| Private room with ensuite bathroom at Ebb & Flow |
Wifi speeds inside my room sufficed for remote work and video conference calls when everyone else is asleep. At other times, I often needed to rely on my Tigo local SIM card to get by because the wifi network was overloaded with other folks also trying to work or post stuff on Instagram. Unfortunately, Starlink has not been approved in Tanzania yet, so you're stuck with the telcos.
Mr. Kahawa Cafe nearby has better wifi and good food if you need another backup. There are also myriads of other restaurants and wifi cafes all within walking distance. I recommend the Ocean Restaurant for its weekly live cultural shows and dinner with your feet in the sand.
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| O little town of Paje |
Other Activities
Zanzibar has plenty to do when the waves are flat. You can try subwing, kitesurfing, wing foiling, or SUP. Watch an acrobatics show on the beach. Ride in a cramped chicken bus ($4 each way) to Stone Town and check out Freddie Mercury's childhood home then eat at the night markets. Swim the healing freshwater inside Kuza Cave and take drumming lessons at the culture centre on the same property. Sail on a dhow.
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| Sunset cruise, anyone? |
There are also snorkeling and diving tours, but I wasn't impressed with the underwater scene after having been to the Philippines. Though a popular snorkeling and diving spot, much of the reef around Mnemba Island is dead or bleached. There are plenty of colorful fish there but I thought the reef in Dongwe was much more lively, with both hard and soft coral and lots of fishies.
Relaxation
Zanzibar is also a great place to just chill out in warm, shallow, crystal clear, turquoise water over blinding white sand. At low tide, you can walk into the ocean for half a mile and the water won't go past your waist. The main source of thrills around here is kitesurfing. Once the winds pick up at noon, the lagoon surrounding the island is filled with kiters and wing foilers.
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| Paje beach |
Maasai
Whether you like it or not, you will be accosted by the curious Maasai warriors wandering up and down the beach and they will ask you lots of questions. If you like to chat for hours while spontaneously jumping up and down, these are your people. They have quite an interesting culture. The stick they carry holds secrets, such as a red genie that comes out to manipulate you into buying their trinkets.
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| Maasai mixing modernity with tradition |
Conclusion
If you're a beginner surfer, this is a great place to start. No crowds. A school with organized surf classes to "process you all like chicken nuggets", as the head surf instructor Ryan put it. If you're not a beginner, well, enjoy the paradise surroundings and lack of crowds. Chances are, you won't get gnarly rides that grace the cover of Surfer magazine.
Reviewed by beachplease
on
October 31, 2023
Rating:
