Surfing Mauritius in November


Boat or paddling endurance required here

Mauritius localism lives up to its hype. This little island nation in the Indian Ocean off the coast of east Africa has the most beautiful breaks but the least friendly lineups I've ever encountered. Localism aside, some of my most sublime rides on a longboard were here, on glassy walls you can see through like jello and draw long carving turns on. 

Long paddles though: at least 20 minutes against the current. I usually opted for a longboard just to make sure I'd have some gas left for actually catching waves and then paddling back home. Some surfers even start their journey to the break with a SUP or a skiff, carrying their surfboard along until they reach the end of the lagoon, at which point they drop anchor and switch over to their surfboard to paddle the rest of the way. 

Localism

That cranky old white guy that you see in YouTube videos about aggressive localism in Mauritius is still there hogging the peak at Tamarin Bay. And yes, he still tells foreigners to bugger off. Sadly, the younger locals have begun to model his behavior and that of the other elders.

I hired a local surf guide named Roger, who was also the pastor to all the local surfers, to ease my way into the lineup but nonetheless encountered scowls and interrogations from the other surfers. I could hear Roger trying to reassure them in his french creole, "She's ok. She's with me.". Roger claims I wouldn't have been allowed to surf there if I didn't have a local guide surfing with me. But of course he would say that! More foreigners means more paying customers for his surf guiding services. Even pastors are motivated by money.

Roger explained the localism stems from unpleasant experiences with "Russian and Israeli surfers who don't follow surf etiquette - they don't follow right-of-way and drop in on other surfers then paddle right back to the peak instead of going to the back of the line and waiting their turn." So instead of trying to distinguish polite foreigners from impolite ones, Mauritians would rather impose a blanket ban on all of us. "It takes too much time to observe foreign surfers and see if they're the kind that respects the rules."

Pryde Club, a russian surf school, offers lessons in the south

He wouldn't let me take my GoPro on any of our surf trips unless we were completely alone. "I don't want my reputation ruined if other locals see I let a foreigner take pictures of our breaks.". If I did manage to get any surf footage, he forbid me from sharing it with surfer friends because "we don't want to promote surfing in Mauritius and turn this place into another Bali". 

There is no law explicitly forbidding foreigners from surfing in Mauritius though. And no one owns the ocean. If you can ignore the cranks, then go surf your heart out. The reef breaks are drop dead gorgeous. You'll be surfing with clear, turquoise water beneath you over white sand and coral bomies. Verdant mountains and white sand beaches lined with palm trees and swaying filao trees await you on the paddle back to shore. 

The soothing sway of filao, or casuarina, trees

Surf Spots

For all surf spots here, mid to high tide is the best time to go, but don't stick around too long unless you want to paddle against the current, which is strongest at low and falling tides. The wind is usually lowest in the morning. Afternoons are for the kite surfers and wing foilers. The water temperature was refreshing in November with some days requiring a light wetsuit depending on the amount of cloud cover and rain. November is the end of the surf season, so the swells grow increasingly few and far between. They're coming from the south or southwest so most of the surf spots at this time of year are in the south. 

The reef breaks are waaay out there

Ti Reef

Not all breaks are localism hell. Ti Reef, or "little reef" south of Le Morne (the iconic mountain you see in videos about the Underwater Waterfall), is mostly foreigners and beginners. The vibe is more welcoming and inclusive and the bottom is sand, which also makes it the most crowded break. On good days, when it's not too windy, you can get long, fat ramps good for longboarders and mid-lengths. Both lefts and rights are on offer here. The left is usually less crowded. The paddle out is 300m or you can take a boat taxi to the break ($10 per person, roundtrip). The boats are usually waiting in front of the Ion Club.

Big Reef

Just another 5-10 minute paddle farther out and north from Ti Reef, is Big Reef, the break just before Chameaux. There are a few shallow coral bommies on the inside, but it's an otherwise deep right-hand reef break with steep drops and long walls. With bigger swells, you can almost connect Big Reef with Ti Reef, where you can catch another wave home. Well, almost home. You still have another 10 minutes of paddling against the current over the flatwater lagoon to get back to shore. 

This is the most multimodal break in Mauritius. You'll find shortboarders, longboarders, kneeboarders, SUP paddlers, and boogie boarders. It's also the most orderly lineup I've ever been to. Everyone took turns and got in line for a wave, except for one guy who snaked a local shortboarder. He didn't hear the end of it from her. Needless to say, he didn't come back.

Ti Reef, Big Reef, Chameaux, One Eye are on the right side of the reef pass

Ilot Sancho

Ilot Sancho is a lonesome A-frame reef break on the south coast. There's a dirt parking lot, picnic benches, and a public bathroom. There's rarely anyone here, so this is a spot you can surf without a surf guide or crowds. The reef is very shallow at mid to low tide - watch your knuckles when duck diving! 

This is an intermediate or higher spot as you cannot surf straight to shore without going through a cheese grater. You must at least be able to turn left or right and go down the line. The rights are long, clean head high to overhead walls - no sections - that peel into a soft shoulder. The left is shorter but punchier and sectiony.

When looking at the wave from the cobblestone shore, you'll see there is a labyrinthine channel on the right. Hug the rocky coastline until you're in the deeper water then cut over to the left back towards the peak. At high tide, you can enter from the left side of the peak (when looking from the shore) if you time it right during a lull. 

Hug that coastline on the right

Tamarin Bay

This is the break featured in the 1966 surf documentary Endless Summer and now those YouTube videos and articles about Mauritius localism. This is Imperious Jerks central, with a clear pecking order starting from the cranky locals at the peak to the surf guides and their wards out on the shoulder to the beginners in the knee-high ripples in front of Tamarin Bay Surf School. 

There are a few parking spots on the street right in front of the public beach. When you enter the beach, walk southwest towards the tour boats moored in the bay then paddle out between the boats until you get to the descendants of slaveowners who still think they own everyone. The long left-hander starts over sand then ends over reef. Note the swell direction must be higher than 210° for this place to see any action.

I hear tell of a right-hander called Black Stone on the north side of the bay but conditions were never right for me to try it in November.

You see Lion's Head going down the line at Tamarin Bay

Food

The existence of agriculture and the blend of french, east african, and indian cuisines here makes for an exciting food scene. Prices are not indo or thai cheap but the flavor, portions, and ambience are worth it. My favorites are the bunny chow at Enso down south in La Gaulette, the set dinner at Gregory's Secret Restaurant (reserve through Happy Days Guest House), and pretty much everything at Nomad in Riviere Noire.

Secret restaurant with a familial atmosphere


Gourmet noms and wifi at Nomad

Lodging

I stayed at Surf House Villa d'Or in La Gaulette. It's a multi-story home where you can rent a self-catering room with a tiny ensuite bathroom and have access to a shared kitchen, seaview balcony, washing machine, and living room. It's a 10-minute drive to Le Morne surf spots and a 5 minute walk to the grocery store. My rent was $900 per month and included a car. 

Downside is, you gotta chase the manager to get any housekeeping done. There's also a little space under the door to let your cockroach friends in. I found some large 2-inchers keeping me company at night at least 3 times in one month. There are better options in the area, but I chose Villa D'Or because I thought I'd find more surfers there. I did not. It's a kite surfers house, but I was taken in like a pitiful orphan as their sole surfer.

Sunset from the balcony at Villa D'Or

Up north, Residence Capri offers clean and spacious 2-bedroom / 2-bathroom apartments with private kitchen, living room, pool, and daily cleaning for sub-$100 a night prices (even less for monthly rates). It's near Wildwind Sailing center and Ennoia gym.

On the east side, I recommend Solana Beach hotel for an all-inclusive, adults-only, beachfront accommodations with activities like sailing, windsurfing, SUP, and snorkeling. Wifi was excellent for remote working. There is no surfing though. This side of the island is like the Ubud to Bali.

Solana Beach

Transportation

The island is so small you can drive around it less than 5 hours but it packs so much fun in. If you decide to rent a car like I did, make sure the insurance is on the windshield and the registration and insurance are current. I got my first speeding ticket here and learned the insurance certificate is supposed to be posted on the windshield and not inside the glovebox where the owner left it. I spent a day at the police station in the middle of the island to pay fines for 1) speeding and 2) for not having the insurance posted on the windshield. Oh, a note for you americans: the steering wheel is on the right side of the car.

There's some serious road rage going on the highway through the center of the island. Some locals seem to want to drive right off the island. One guy tailgated me when I slowed down like everyone else due to torrential rain that lowered visibility down to 6 feet. He pulled in front of me at 70 mph then suddenly slammed on his brakes so hard I almost went through his bumper. He then sped off to what I believe is his bathroom. He must have had diarrhea or something to make him so impatient. Or maybe it's that same prick at Tamarin Bay who shoos away other surfers.

Sunday driving on the southeastern side

Remote Work

Mauritius is surprisingly well developed and equipped for remote work and long term stays. You can find housing at a wide range of price points, from luxury resorts to affordable apartments. AC? Check. Low cost of living? Check. Stable wifi sufficient for streaming and video conferencing? Check. 

Mauritius also offers a digital nomad visa so you can work there for up to 183 days exempt from local income tax. It is the wealthiest African country by GDP per capita and the economy is diversified. The roads are paved, the electricity stays on all day, and internet is fast and stable. You'd think you were back in an american city in some parts of the island, such as Grand Baie and Mont Choisy in the north.

Yes, this is eastern Africa

Other Activities

There are plenty of things to do other than surfing and kitesurfing. Le Morne Brabant and Black River Gorges National Park offers lots of shady hikes to waterfalls and vista points. If you go up north, there are sailing clubs, dance studios, air-conditioned gyms (check out Ennoia) with a variety of group fitness classes, and shops with high-quality souvenirs. If you need a break from all the adrenaline, head to the east side to chill on pristine shores.

The iconic Le Morne in the distance

Conclusion

Mauritius is one of the most long-term livable surf destinations I've been to. There's a good balance between raw nature and civilization in such a compact little island. It doesn't have the friendliest folks but the waves are spectacular, the water clean and warm, and there's plenty to do when the waves are flat. And localism won't be an issue if I become a local myself, right? If I learn french, I could see myself moving there someday. It's got more of what I'm looking for in a new home: surfing, dance studios, parkour, gymnastics, tropical environment, good food, infrastructure, and low cost of living. 

Dessert at Nomad
Surfing Mauritius in November Surfing Mauritius in November Reviewed by beachplease on November 15, 2023 Rating: 5
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