 |
| Fishing off Pomene point at high tide |
Don't let that AK-47 on the national flag scare you. This is the least crowded place I've ever surfed even though this is where South Africans flock to when they're tired of cold water. Mozambique has opened for tourism (and foreign investment from China) and most of the landmines in the southern coastal areas have been cleared (do not veer off the well-trodden paths).
 |
| AK-47 comes first, agriculture and books come second |
A protracted civil war that ended in 1992 left the locals tired of fighting - and aggression in general. At least in the beach towns (I can't speak much for Maputo since I didn't stop there), people are chill and friendly. The main language is portuguese but folks in beach towns like Tofo and Ponto d'Ouro speak english.
 |
| Simple life |
Surf Spots
Pomene
What a gem! An empty, sand bottom, right-hand point break with clean, warm, turquoise water. Just you and your mates, surrounded by hot white sand, trees and nothing else as the shore is undeveloped. This is my favorite break in all of Mozambique.
Pomene's hot sand and empty lineups
Best surfed at mid to low tide. At high tide, the lagoon fills up adding another 1000ft to your paddle out. In November/December, wave heights varied between waist high to slightly overhead.
When the waves are moving perpendicular to the shore, you basically have to take the first wave that comes after you jump off the rocks. It's a crap shoot. The current is so strong that you'll be whisked way down the beach in 10 seconds if you miss the peak (or there's no wave available right after you jump). You'll get your steps in just getting out of the water and walking back to the peak over and over. It's much faster than paddling against the current.
Mass tourism has not touched this place (yet). No hawkers on the beach. No surf shops or ding repair shops either. If you lose a flip flop (which I did when I fell asleep in the lagoon), you'll either have to barter with someone else for shoes or wait for the drive back to Tofo. Set a few hundred feet back from the beach, behind the trees, there's a small village of people who don't surf. They mind their own business and go about their fishing and cooking while the chickens roam the yard.
The village has a small bar with a pool table and a hut with wooden sculptures of Coca-cola bottles for sale. Don't be fooled by their simplicity though, the locals are quite good at pool. There's not much else for them to do around here.
Little village of Pomene
When you're not surfing, I recommend exploring the sea caves and natural pools around the corner from the jump-off point on the rocky terrace. Lots of good tidepooling here. The barnacles and rock are pretty rough though, so I would wear reef shoes.
 |
| So many tide pools to poke around and soak in |
Tofinho Point
A powerful right-hand point break in Tofo. Gets busy when the waves are pumping. Long, rippable walls. Mixed sand and rock bottom. You can jump off the rocky point or paddle through the channel. On bigger days, be careful not to get too close to sharp, jagged rocks separating Dragons from Tofinho Point. Walking distance from Turtle Cove Lodge.
Dragons
Uncrowded beach break with multiple peaks. Lefts and rights. Closeouts when it's over 5 feet. Walking distance from Turtle Cove Lodge. Sand bottom and suitable for complete beginners.
Back Beach
A flat rock reef break with A-frames on an empty beach in Tofo. Multiple peaks. Waves were punchy and break close to shore. Rides were short. Good for boogie boarders and intermediate surfers. There was one odd day when the water was cold and I wished I had a 2 or 3 mm wetsuit. The break is a 5-minute drive from Turtle Cove Lodge.
Tofo Beach
In November, Tofo beach had soft, mellow waves good for beginners. It's a sand bottom beach break with surf schools, touristy shops, and restaurants. The clothing shops have onsite tailors that can customize daishikis to your liking. We didn't surf Tofo beach because the waves were too small for us and none of us brought a longboard. But every time we passed by we'd only see 1 or 2 surfers out.
Barra Beach
Beach break with a strong current that takes you north. We did a drift surf, akin to a drift dive, where we let the current carry us along while we ride whatever waves we can.
Ponta D'Ouro
Right-hand point break with sand bottom. I didn't surf it because of the strong onshore winds, rain, and very small and choppy waves. This is the closest break to South Africa too, so the water is colder.
 |
| Sun came out in Ponta d'Ouro just as we were leaving |
Lodging
Lodging is rustic and gets more so the farther north you go. Don't expect AC nor stable electricity and drink filtered water only. The tap water is not potable. Wifi and mobile data is very spotty except in hotel reception areas. I was glad I used my vacation days for most of the trip as it would have been frustrating trying to work remotely here.
Ponta D'Ouro
Ponta d'Ouro, just on the other side of the border with South Africa, is the most developed. Cliffside lodges and holiday rentals have AC, wifi, pool - the works!
 |
| Cliffside inn at Ponta D'Ouro |
Tofo
The next town north is Tofo. This is the home of Minicho, Mozambique's first pro surfer. We stayed at Turtle Cove Lodge and Yoga Shala, which has good wifi in the restaurant/reception area but no AC. The windows in the rooms don't open, but you do get a fan and mosquito net. November/December was sweltering. I found it difficult to get good sleep. I only fell asleep either from sheer exhaustion or heat stroke, then would wake up several times throughout the night to peel the sheets off my sweaty back.
 |
| Arts & Crafts time at Turtle Cove Lodge |
Pomene
Farther north, in Pomene, there is only one place to stay: Pomene Beach Camp. Everywhere else is an abandoned hotel or a fake holiday rental that's really the private home of some wealthy dude. Though they have signage, they're not set up for business with tourists. They masquerade as a hotel to get around some prohibition against private homes in the area.
 |
| At the point break you'll see a resort abandoned during the civil war |
Pomene Beach Camp is owned by a cheery couple, a South African man and an American woman. They recently installed Starlink wifi so internet is stable and fast enough for remote work and streaming movies. Guests stay in open-air, thatched roof huts with mosquito nets and a fan (no AC). The place runs on solar power and has a septic tank system.
 |
| The breeze atop the hill made up for the lack of AC in the rooms |
Transportation
Beyond the highways and main drags, you will need a 4WD to get around because the roads to the beaches are unpaved and sandy. Be sure to lower your tire pressure before you get off the asphalt and maintain momentum across the deep sand pockets.
 |
| Sandy roads once you get off the highway |
It's best to go with a guide, such as Ryan Ribbink, a.k.a "Mr. Mozam", as he knows when and where to go, how to deal with the traffic stops along the way, etc. He's been plying the South Africa - Mozambique route for over 20 years and has guided Steph Gilmore, Gabriel Medina, and other pro surfers to this surfing frontier. Warning: He's quite a character. His sense of humor is not for everyone but he has a code of honor. He guided the Ticket to Ride - Mozambique 4x4 Road Trip I went on.
 |
| 4WD required |
If you're really adventurous, you could try public transport, which is just a pickup truck with the entire village piled on, drums and all. Not sure how you would fit your surfboards on it though.
Conclusion
Reviewed by beachplease
on
December 15, 2023
Rating:
